The
dawn finds me on the bow of the ship, looking far away the dark-green coasts of
Lesvos, with the seagulls flying slowly in the sky…The harbor half-asleep
moves slowly at the moment the anchor disturbs its entrails…Let me get
down…to be in time before sun rises, to hear the waking of this town.
Going uphill from the harbor, there I meet the statue of Liberty,
surrounded by the tiny forest "The Tsamakia" - as the natives
call
it - and slightly upper the aristocratic neighborhood "Kioski" with
the artistic mansions, well preserved, doubtless evidence of the past's welfare,
days that never came back. The Archaeological Museum, the Judge House,
the Ministry οf Aegean, overwhelmed with green and slightly lower
the mansion of Chalim-bey, today the Public Gallery housing human works
of art. 
At the moment I go downhill towards the old harbor, "Epano Skala" the
sun paints
red the ancient breakwater " Kouckos", that in past linked sea with
earth…The Castle with the huge stones and the artistic embrasures, the Turkish
theological seminar and the blazon of Gateluzes, faithful guardian of old
times and …a stone - built tower half sank into the crystal clear water…And
then the statue of Asia Minor Mother, reflects to my soul its sorrow of
the year 1922
as my eyes travel towards the opposite coasts…The memories
suffocate me and the light keeps hardening….
"Kalamari" site, the old flour-mills, with the siren that has
stopped calling the laborers of the past with its stiff voice, "Therma
Kourtzi" site afterwards with the faded stone-built walls, the
"Tambakaria" site and then passing by the factories longing for the
sea : Panayiouda with the hospitable small cafes and the
stone-paved breakwater and Moria village with the
numerous olive trees,
the towers with the little wooden balconies - the "sachnisinia"- the Roman
Aqueduct, Aphalonas and Pamphila village
with the tiny stone paved streets. Pigi, Komi, Pyrgi Thermis with the
stone built houses, the sandy beach of the area, Loutropolis, the
fishers' port, the Monastery of Saint Raphael built on the green
hill of Karyes - the abandoned - hotel Sarlitza Palace, the
fishers' port, the stone built wind mill, Petalidi beach…
And the road
keeps going on northwards, beside Aegean Sea, just one step from the opposite
coasts … Mystegna with the tiny fishers' port, Nees Kydonies with
the melon-fields, the beach of Aspropotamos and the settlement of Saint
Stephan, the settlement of "Tzoukalades" ( potters ) with
the stone built church, the kilns and the cottages… You smell earth and
sea …The islets of Tokmakia opposite and afterwards
Mandamados
with the Monastery of Archangel Michael. There I take a rest at the
traditional cafes accompanied by old people, drinking in the smell of
fired clay, hot fresh milk and thyme…Upper : Kapi village, Limani
beach, Pelopi, Ipsilometopo, Lepetymnos, Argenos,
Tsonia, Skamea…There
at the beach pilgrim at the church of Virgin Mary the Mermaid
…as the sun says goodbye to the day…with light heart far away from the
town's and the days' lack of symmetry
Here I am, back to the
harbor longing for walking on the narrow streets of Mytilene, inside the "sokakia"
as the natives call them. The light is dimming as the sun sets and then I start
wandering inside the stone-paved streets of Ermou. It is the moment that
the shop-keepers close the shutters to end up to coffee-shops for a small
measure of ouzo…
I go uphill through the back-streets of the refugees' settlement with the stone-built houses, and at the moment I arrive on the top of Ayias Kyriakis hill, the town has already worn its festive lights. The ancient theater -swept around by gigantic pine-trees-travel me to the ancient Greek drama and elegy.
I go downhill with melancholy towards south, passing by neighborhoods with white
painted little gardens giving out the fragrance
of flourished lemon-trees -the Kamares
area- Lagada area with the lilacs, Alyssida, Vournazon street with
the ambitious mansions, Kavetsou street with the modern multi-storeyed
buildings, Venizelou street, Sourada the aristocratic
settlement with the luxurious mansions, weighed down with statues - made of
stone or copper- fountains and colorful cobbled paths.
Afterwards : Akrotiri area beside the sea, Varea, the Museum of Popular Art
of Theophilos painter, and the Museum of Modern Art, of Terriade,
Kayiani village with the church of Archangel Gabriel, with the
little coffee-shops and the narrow streets, Pligoni, Ayia Marina and
then back beside the sea… The airport, Neapolis, the copse of Rousellis
the donator, Kratigos, Vigla, Charamida, Ayios Ermogenis and Loutra
village.
I go downhill towards west ending up to Skala Loutron, to Kountouroudia, to
have
a rest at the small cafes, beside the greenish seawater, as I wait for the boat
that will take me to the opposite coasts of Geras Gulf…